JQXiilMJ.1. 



OF A 



TRIP HmCALIFORNIA 



i*xano!J«a5»i«»i!»Je«ac««»ww>"*t»»!»" 



ByM..W. SltfH 




Book_ 



-S_44l 



JOURNAL 

OF A 

TRIP TO CALIFORNIA 

Across the Continent 

From Weston, Mo., to Weber Creek, Cal. 

In the Summer of 1850 

\/ 

By C. W. SMITH 

Edited with an Introduction and Notes, 

By 

R. W. G. VAIL 

Librarian of 
The Minnesota Historical Society 



THE CADMUS bOOK SHOP 
NEW YORK 




Press 

STANDARD BOOK COMPANY 

Manchester. N. H. 






INTRODUCTION. 

Several years ago I had the good fortune to find, 
in the lumber and rubbish of a storeroom, this lit- 
tle journal. A small leather-backed notebook, it 
had lain unnoticed and forgotten for more than 
half a century in the author's old homestead. 

The original manuscript is written in a 4 by 6- 
inch notebook, bound in boards. It contains 180 
pages of text, with pressed western flowers and 
plants pasted on the five fly-leaves at the end. 

Mr. William Smith, our author's father, came 
from Gloucestershire, England, in 1831 and settled 
on a farm (now owned by his grandson, George 
Smith) just west of the village of Victor, N. Y. 
For several years Mr. Smith's sons, James and 
Charles W., both helped him on the farm, but 
eventually the latter decided to become a printer 
and so obtained a position in the neighboring vil- 
lage of Canandaigua. 

At the time of the discovery of gold in Cali- 
fornia, Mr. C. W. Smith* had been for several 
years on the staff of the Ontario Messenger, which 
perhaps accounts for the interesting and newsy 
style in which his journal is written. Certain it is 
that he showed more than usual ability and train- 
ing in narrating the experiences of the overland 
journey and especially in painting a vivid picture 



*A portrait of the author, painted in East Bloomfield, N. Y., is still 
owned by the family in Victor. — ED. 



4 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

of the prairies, the rivers and mountains, the rocks 
and the flowers. 

And so the Spring of 1850 found Mr. Smith 
leaving his place in the composing room at Can- 
andaigua and, after a brief farewell visit with his 
family in Victor, he proceeded to Centreville, Indi- 
ana, from which town he dated the first entry of 
his narrative. The journal itself tells the rest of 
the story, and I am sure that the student of western 
historv will find it one of the most valuable of the 
contemporary journals of the Forty-Niners and 
the Overland Trail. 

R. W. G. Vail. 
The Minnesota Historical Society, March 20, 1920. 



LETTER TO MOTHER. 

April 10, 1853. 
Dear Mother: 

I have concluded to send you my journal, not because I 
think it contains anything of great interest, but because I know 
you will take it as an evidence that I have not forgotten my 
Mother. 

Nancy and I have been married two years today, and 
through that time have walked peacefully along the path of 
life together, a path on which little Alice now presses her tiny 
feet and, holding a little hand in each of ours, will make our 
union more complete. It is now nearly six years since I left 
home, a home which I then expected to see again in a few 
months, and would have seen had I been able to return in a 
better condition than when I left it, for it is always expected 
that when a young man goes out upon the world, it is to rise 
and prosper, and not return in rage. And if it was not for that 
ambitious feeling that forbids there are now thousands in Cali- 
fornia and Oregon, who would instantly start for those good 
old homes on the other side of the Rocky Mountains. In all my 
wonderings I have been singularly fortunate, always having 
my health, and never meeting with those accidents which are 
common to persons in an unsettled condition. In regard to the 
good things of this world, I have reason to be grateful, rather 
however for what we expect, than what we now enjoy, for our 
640 acres of land are lying in an unproductive state, and 
Nancy's money is all in the States, excepting $200, which were 
sent across the plains. 

The spring here opens early this year, a full month in ad- 
vance of last. The hillsides are covered with good fresh grass 
and many places with a variety of flowers, some of which would 
adorn a garden. 

The pony that we called "Uncle Ned" is gone "where the 
good ponies go" — to the mines. I got a mare and $15 for it, 
but after it had run out a few weeks, and improved, it became 



6 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

so wild that I could not catch it, and I gav^e a man $2.00 to 
catch her for me. Bnt I have traded again, and this time I 
have got one that Nancy can ride, and could be sold for $100. 

We have got but one cow at home, and one in the Willam- 
mette Valley, and $75 there for the purp>ose of buying another 
cow. 

Alice is growing fast, and can stand by holding to a chair. 
Nancy is going to put a lock (a small lock I guess) of her hair 
in this book. She has two teeth and Nancy says she can bite. 
I understand that Jesse Dryer is here, with Rawson. * 
He sent word to me that you had sent a box and that it was 
in his trunk at Marysville and would be brought to this valley 
as soon as there was an opportunity. Marysville is a place in 
the Willammette, about 100 miles from here. The country is 
beginning to be pretty well settled up in this quarter, some new 
neighbors having lately come in. Our claim is joined on three 
sides by settlers. 

There is a new postoffice nearer than Winchester, to which 
I would like you to direct hereafter . Name, Deer Greek, Doug- 
lass County. 

I ihave not received a letter from Sarah yet. I will still 
look for it. 1 received a letter from John. I vvdll send an 
answer in a short time. 

April 17. I have just received a letter from Nancy's folks 
in relation to her property, which we will probably get this fall. 
I start for the Willammette next Wednesday, and will be gone 
about 15 days, 1 shall bring a cow with me, perhaps two. I 
shall fake this book with me and mail it in the Willammette. 
While I am gone Nancy wil have to stay alone, excepting one 
of the neighbors little girls . Cattle have rose to an enormous 
price lately, good oxen will sell for $300.00 per yoke. 

I intend when I am able to buy a goo"d horse team, and 
then I can go somewhere in some reasonable time, and with 
pleasure. Nancy will send some specimens of wild flowers be- 
tween the leaves of this book. 

C. W. SMITH. 



*Norman Rawson of Victor, N. Y., unci© of Mrs. Herman Boughton, who 
now owns the pistol that he carried across the plains. Dryer was also 
from Victor. — LDITOR. 



JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO 
CALIFORNIA 



"Ever changirig from scene to scene, deriving new interest 
from them all, and learning eacli day something more of the 
many wonders of nature." — The Author, 



Journal of a Trip to California 



In the Spring of 1850 the startHng reports from 
CaHfornia in relation to the discoveries of gold had 
been generally confirmed and sustained by such a 
vast number of letters that most men v^ere satis- 
fied of their truth. 

Strongly impressed with the general correctness 
of reports from the modern El Dorado, I at length 
determined to wend my way in that direction, and 
having made the necessary arrangements, I left 
Centreville, Ind., on the second of April, 1850. On 
the same day a company of about twelve men left 
the same place and about the same number left 
Richmond, Ind., bound for the same destination. 

The Spring of 1850 was unusually backward, in 
consequence of which many were compelled to 
spend many days at the various starting places on 
the frontier. 

April 4, 1850. 

I make my first note at Cincinnati, Ohio, on 
board the Cambria April 4, 1850. Though the 
Spring is backward, the weather has been fine for 
a few days past ; some parts have begun to assume 
a green appearance, and the roads from this place 
were quite good. 

9 



10 TEIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

I have engaged passage on the Cambria for St. 
Louis, and am now impatient to be off. The boat 
was to start at 4 o'clock p. m.^ but we are yet here. 
It is a very common practice of deceiving travelers 
as to the time of the departure of boats. It should 
be frowned down by the traveling public, as it 
causes great perplexity and loss of time, etc. Pas- 
sengers are still coming on board. Most of them 
are bound for California. A large number of 
mules and horses are on deck. Some of them are 
inferior animals, especially the mules. The price 
of mules and horses is represented as being quite 
high at St. Joseph and Independence. Good wag- 
ons can be purchased here for $75.00, and many 
are being taken for the emigrating service. A 
company has been organized here, offering to carry 
passengers to the gold region for $r6o, each pas- 
senger to do his equal share of the necessary labor 
upon the road. 

April 5, 1850. 

Ohio River, April 5, 1850. We left Cincinnati 
yesterday afternoon about 5 o'clock, with a large 
number of passengers on board. Reached Madi- 
son last night and laid to till morning. We are 
now riding along at a fine rate. The clouds that 
hung above us all the morning are partly cleared 
away, and the warm sun shining through at inter- 
vals, making it rather pleasant and it would be 
really so, were it not for a cold breeze that is now 
up. The trees upon the banks of the river begin 



DOWN TEE OHIO. 11 

to assume the appearance of spring, putting forth 
their fresh buds and lending to the prospect some 
degree of cheerfulness. The banks of the river 
are here high and abrupt, and well timbered, 
though the general prospect is rather monotonous. 

Sunday, April 7. 

I made no note of yesterday, having seen noth- 
ing of particular interest. The river banks become 
lower as we descend. Today I have seen fruit 
trees in blossom. Our passage is rather disagree- 
able — too cool to be agreeable on deck, from which 
the passenger wishes to view the shores of the 
river. I rose early this morning and went on deck, 
as usual. It was early dawn, so early that I would 
not have thought it morning were it not for a 
golden streak in the east, glowing beneath a heavy 
mass of dark clouds. We were just then at an 
interesting point, passing round the point from the 
Ohio into the mighty Mississippi, and had already 
begun to stem its muddy current when I came on 
deck. I took a long look down between her banks, 
for the purpose of impressing upon my memory a 
picture which I might unveil in the future. The 
flush of crimson dawn-light was reflected upon the 
ripples that came chasing in our wake. 

Now and then upon the shore the dark outlines 
of a log cabin (the wood-chopper's home) met the 
eye. The banks, are low and marshy, and mostly 
covered with underbrush, such as cottonwood, etc. 
The river is some two miles wide here (fifteen 



12 



TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 



miles above the mouth of the Ohio) and divided by 
numerous islands of all sizes — from an acre to sev- 
eral miles in length. To keep the channel, we have 
to shift constantly from one side of the river to the 
other; sometimes I could throw a stone to the 
shore. This is a quiet, calm Sabbath morning, the 
sun shining out brightly, with a cool breeze float- 
ing in from the west. But the iron giant beneath 
us knows no Sabbath, no more than those who di- 
rect her powerful arms, and keeps working on, 
tireless and imdismayed; but like a war horse, 
champing the bit, he is a dangerous slave, breath- 
ing fire and smoke and shaking his person by his 
gigantic struggles. To use a strong poetical figure,,^ 
he seems to say: 

"Bind me down with your iron bands, 
Make sure of your curb and rein, 
For I scorn the strength of your puny hands 
As the lion scorns a chain." 

Tho California-bound passengers on board are 
a hardy-looking class of men, say but little about 
the gold, and are probably prepared to meet the 
dangers and hardships of the journey. 



April 8. 

The banks of the Mississippi begin to assume a 
more cheerful aspect, the banks are higher and are 
partly covered with cedar bushes and other ever- 
green shrubbery. We arrived at St. Louis at 
about 9 o'clock this morning, and immediately took 



UP THE MISSOURI. 13 

passage upon ''The Pride of the Wesf for St. 
Joseph. We expect to be about a week in going 
there, longer than it would take to travel the same 
distance on the Ohio, owing to the numerous ob- 
structions in the river. The signs of an immense 
emigration become more apparent as we approach 
the starting points. Every boat is crowded with 
passengers, horses, wagons and everything else 
necessary for an outfit preparatory to crossing the 
continent. 

At St. Louis business appears quite brisk at 
present. The levee is crowded with articles of 
trade. But St. T.ouis, like Louisville, bears the 
mark of slavery in their population and the appear- 
ance of local business; their suburbs, instead of 
being occupied by the beautiful little dwellings of 
artisans, look ruinous and uninteresting. 

Well, we are under way again, St. Louis is fad- 
ing away in the twilight and blending with the 
distant hills. Tomorrow morning I expect to look 
upon the waters of the Missouri. 

April 9. 

We entered the Missouri this morning at sunrise 
and are now making but slow progress in conse- 
quence of the numerous obstructions in the stream, 
such as sawyers, sand bars, etc. We are com- 
pelled to lie up at shore at nigh. The weather is 
decidedly cool today, and we have been favored 
with a few flakes of snow. The soil some sixty 
miles above St. Louis looks productive, is suffi- 



14 TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

ciently high for agricultural purposes and is well 
timbered. At St. Louis I saw a few Indians, be- 
longing to some of the western tribes. They were 
dressed in the highest style of their fashion, their 
faces painted and highly colored with red powder. 
Their hair is also dyed or powdered red after the 
same manner as their faces. They were quite curi- 
ous specimens of humanity to those unacquainted 
with Indian fashions. We have but very few lady 
passengers. 

April io. 

Weather clear and cold. We have just passed 
Jefferson City, the capital of Missouri. It is but a 
small place and unimportant, only as being the 
capital. The state house is a respectable two-story 
stone building situated upon a bluff near the river, 
fronting the east. There is also a state prison 
here, inclosed by a high stone wall. We have seen 
some specimens of wild game on the river, such as 
geese, ducks, turkeys, etc. Speaking of game re- 
minds me of gaming, a business that is very ex- 
tensivelv followed on the river steamers. About 
one third of the passengers on board are at this 
moment engaged in that laudable profession — 
many of them play for money. This class is bound 
for California and pass the dimes freely. 

April 13. 

I have neglected my journal a little on account 
of sickness. The boat is anything but agreeable to 



SLOW HEADWAY. 15 

a person in good health, but to a sick man it is al- 
most insupportable. When I awoke yesterday 
morning, I was very much oppressed with heat, 
and supposed the weather had moderated in the 
night. I got up and went on deck, and fancied 
that the weather was very mild, but instead of this, 
I suppose the difference was in myself, having con- 
tracted a slight fever in the night. In cooling 
myself I caught a severe cold, and soon began to 
feel very chilly. I sat by a hot stove, wrapped ^' 
my overcoat, but it was impossible to get warm, so 
I sat shivering all day. Owing to the crowded 
state of the boat, I had not got a berth when I took 
passage, but slept upon the cabin floor, with about 
fifty others. I again attempted to get a berth, but 
could not, so I was compelled to "chew the cud of 
sweet and bitter fancy" alone. Today I succeeded 
in getting a berth of one of the passengers, in which 
I took a refreshing sleep, took some quinine, and 
now begin to feel better. I also had a very severe 
pain in my side, but I am getting better of that, 
too. As I have been close by the stove for a day 
or two past, I can say but little about the country 
through which T have passed. Yet I know we have 
rim upon numerous sand bars, backed out and 
found other channels; stopped for wood and pas- 
sengers, and I felt the jarring of the machinery be- 
neath me. A large number of the passengers on 
board are more or less indisposed, so I have not 
suft'ered more than many others. We have passed 
several respectable towns in coming up, the princi- 



16 TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

pal of which arc Boonville, Lexington and Inde- 
pendence. The latter is some four miles from the 
river. We expect to reach St. Joseph tomorrow. 
There is a report abroad that the cholera prevails 
at St, Joseph, and some of our passengers are leav- 
ing the boat to avoid it. It is also said to prevail 
at other towns on the river. I shall not deviate 
from my course on that account. If it is my fate 
to be stricken down at this time, I shall try to 
meet my fate like a Christian. But I have hope 
and a strong belief that — 

"There's a divinity that shapes our ends 
Eongh hew them how we will." 

April i8. 

Weston, Missouri, April i8. We arrived here 
last Sunday morning, stopped, because our boat 
being a large one, we could not go up the river in 
her further. We have since concluded that Wes- 
ton is as good a starting-place as any on the Mis- 
souri, and have determined to fit out here for the 
journey, and we have already engaged partners in 
a w^agon, looked at cattle, provisions, etc. 

April 22. 

Our arrangements are completed, and w^e intend 
to cross the river tomorrow and join a company as 
soon as possible. The weather is becoming a little 
more pleasant, as the Spring is late. We will take 
with us what grain we can carry for our cattle. I 



WESTERN FERRY BOATS. 17 

am now enjoying good health and feel myself 
hardening to our present rude mode of life. All 
that now remains to be done is to put our cattle 
to the wagon and be off. 

April 23. 

Weston Ferry, April 23. As we found several 
parties before us at the ferry this morning, we are 
compelled to wait several hours till our turn. All 
we expect today is to cross the river, and go out 
two or three miles in the country, where we ex- 
pect to join a company. Several hundred wagons 
are already on the opposite shore, waiting for the 
season to bring forth grass, etc. I can now see the 
smoke ascending from the camp fires behind the 
bluff upon the other side. Everybody is impatient 
to be on the trail, fearing that others will reach the 
diggings before him. Two of our party are quite 
feverish just now, and I have consented to start 
immediately, though I think it is too early. 

The ferry boats here are very poor and make 
slow passages. Common flat boats are used, pro- 
pelled with oars; they have to tow them up the 
shore a quarter of a mile before crossing, to pre- 
vent landing below their mark on the other side. 
They carry about two wagons each time, beside 
several head of cattle or horses. We are now to 
cross. 

April 25. 

We started early this morning from our encamp- 
ment one mile west of the Missouri, and went to 



18 TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

within about one mile of a stream called Soldiers' 
Creek. We have not yet joined a company. To- 
day we made some i8 miles. About noon we 
stopped at the cabin of an old Indian, of whom we 
purchased an additional supply of corn at $i.oo per 
barrel. The country through which we came today 
is a high, rolling prairie. , 

April 26. 

Left our encampment about 8 o'clock in the 
morning and went some fifteen miles before stop- 
ping, where we encamped for the night. We 
stopped by a fine little stream of excellent water. 
Today I had some extensive views entirely difl^er- 
ent from any I ever before experienced. Every- 
thing here seems created on a magnificent plan, the 
atmosphere clear, the landscape just beginning to 
wear its earliest green, and the landscape stretched 
far back against the sky. Today we fell in with 
some other Californians, but, having mule teams, 
they soon left us in the rear. I have not yet seen 
any game except a few prairie hens. I have seen 
but very few Indians. Today we met one brawny 
fellow ; he was quite sociable — wanted whiskey and 
''tobac." We gave him a small piece of the latter. 
He was very thankful for small favors, and as he 
left us, he took a trail and was soon lost sight of 
among the hills. He wore buckskin leggings, a 
blanket over his shoulders, and a sort of turban on 
his head. Last night I stood on guard till 12 
o'clock. Profound silence reigned, except the 



THE ST. JOSEPH ROAD. 19 

croaking of a million frogs, and the distant 
rumbling of thunder in a black cloud that hung in 
the west. In the latter part of the night it rained 
a little. The grass is very poor here, but is said 
to be better several miles in advance. 

April 2y. 

Was off early this morning, and traveled about 
thirty miles over a fine prairie country. I saw a 
large train of wagons that came in on the St. Jo- 
seph road. I have noticed a great many ox teams 
on the road. I believe they make the surest team 
— will subsist on nearly anything and are not so 
liable to become fractious and run away, if prop- 
erly managed, as horses or mules. The weather is 
still cold — it must be extremely cold here in winter. 

April 28. 

Set off about sunrise and drove about twenty 
miles and stopped. Owing to our ignorance of the 
road, we had some trouble to find a convenient 
place to encamp, the country getting a little more 
level. 

April 29. 

This morning we joined a company of three wag- 
ons with which we intend to travel. The men are 
mostly Germans and not of my selection. Went 
about twenty miles by one o'clock and encamped; 
high winds prevail. We all have good health and 



20 



TEIP TO CALIFORNIA. 



strong appetites. A sort of inefficient election was 
held this morning at which one of our men was 
chosen captain — a man in no way calculated to act 
in that capacity. Strong pledges of mutual assist- 
ance were given, etc. In looking over these vast 
prairies, just beginning to freshen beneath the 
smile of Spring, I can scarcely believe that they 
are uninhabited. Not a tree is within reach of the 



eye. 



April 30. 



Off again early this morning and went seven 
miles before breakfast. After breakfast we 
pushed on twelve miles more by one o'clock, when 
we stopped to dine, by a small brook. Two miles 
more brought us to another stream, which we 
crossed, and traveled on. Yesterday afternoon a 
mild south wind prevailed, but fell in the night, 
when it became quite cold. Toward morning, a 
perfect gale sprung up in the north, and though I 
laid in the wagon, wrapped in a blanket, in heavy 
overcoat, I suffered very much by the cold. The 
wind poured through our covering like cold water. 
Thirty wagons passed us today — they all had feed 
for their teams. The wind still raged this morn- 
ing till about noon, when the sun shone out and it 
began to get pleasant. 

The country here assumes a more even appear- 
ance, and resembles in some degree what I had an- 
ticipated. We have seen a great number of little 
animals called prairie squirrels, resembling the 
ground squirrel of the northern states. The ground 



INDIAN DEPREDATIONS. 21 

is literally filled with their holes. I have seen also 
a great many elk horns by the way ; they are huge 
specimens and indicate that a superior quality of 
game abounds here at certain seasons of the year. 
A few prairie hens come in sight occasionally, but 
are rather wild. No timber except on the water 
courses, and upon these it is so hedged in by the 
hills that it cannot be seen till you get close to it. 
In consequence of their ignorance of the road, the 
emigrants carry wood and water where it is un- 
necessary, and again, neglect to take it when 
needed; but this is unavoidable. The heavy west 
winds drive a blinding dust in our faces, and in a 
few hours a person becomes as black as a negro. 
Yesterday we met two United States dragoons. 
They report some Indian depredations in advance 
of us. One is that a family has been massacred by 
the Indians, and that the troops from the Fort 
Laramie had pursued the murderers and put one 
hundred to death. Our road so far has been most 
excellent, better than a turnpike, as it is not so hard 
for the feet of teams. Generally the road is not 
worn through the heavy turf but just deep enough 
to expose the roots of the grass, which are as large 
as a man's little finger. Yet, from the appearance 
of the road, there are a great many emigrants be- 
fore us. Five four-horse wagons passed us yes- 
terday ; they traveled fast, intended to go forty per 
day and had feed sufficient for fifteen days, thirty 
miles. 



2^ TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

May I. 

Started early and went to a tributary of Little 
Blue River, some four miles, and took breakfast. 
The grass begins to look better. At noon we found 
water close by the road. We are constantly pass- 
ing and re-passing wagons. I have noticed some 
few families on the road, including all ages and 
sexes. Tonight we stop off the road to the right 
one hundred rods, within four miles of Big Blue 
River. We cross it tomorrow. The country tol- 
erably level. The wolves make a great noise at 
night. A majority of the emigrants now on the 
road are Missourians. Distance, twenty-four 
miles. 

May 2. 

Left encampment at two o'clock this morning, 
for the purpose of giving our cattle more time to 
feed in the middle of the day. Reached Blue River 
at daylight; crossed over immediately; went two 
miles further and stopped for breakfast. This 
plan of irregular driving I consider of no advan- 
tage, yet we have practiced it because some of our 
men think it excellent policy. Weather fine, with 
a shower in the afternoon. Today we passed the 
place where the Weston road joins the Inde- 
pendence and St. Joseph roads. Many come in 
from the Independence road, and the trail is now 
alive with emigrants. At night we stopped twelve 
miles west of Big Blue River, a short distance from 
the road, where we found wood, water and some 



WISCONSIN WAGONS. 23 

pickinp; for our cattle. When I got up this morn- 
ing I felt quite unwell and soon commenced vomit- 
ing. Ml-. Finch offered me his pony to ride, which 
I accepted, but soon found it almost impossible to 
keep my scat, so I got off and led the pony. Soon 
after, one of our company solicited the use of the 
pony, and as I let him have it and he rode on, I 
w^as compelled to walk till we stopped for break- 
fast. I felt so exhausted that it was almost im- 
possible to proceed, and at one time I seriously 
thought of lying down by the road and resting my- 
self, and run the risk of losing the wagons. But I 
struggled on till breakfast time, when I took medi- 
cine and soon became better. In many places in 
this region we find water standing in holes upon 
the prairie, and as the weather is cool it is toler- 
ably good, though I suppose it stagnates later in 
the season. 

May 3. 

Started early: soon crossed a little stream and 
went on in a northwest direction till noon, when w^e 
came round to the southwest. Up to this time our 
general course has been northwest, and this is the 
reason why the season seems so backward here. 
The vegetation is no more advanced here than at 
Weston ten days since. We were passed at noon 
by a company of one hundred w^agons from Wis- 
consin, and also one of thirty from Illinois. Most 
of them had fme horse teams — generally four 
horses to each wagon. The wind has been high 



U TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

and cold — cold as winter. Imagine a man on the 
third of May walking in a heavy overcoat and 
blanket, and shivering with cold. This was my 
conditon. At sundow^n the wind subsided and a 
rosy glow in the west promised a fair tomorrow. 
Went nineteen miles today and stopped by a little 
stream called Rock Brook. I see but very few In- 
dians, perhaps one in a week. We have passed 
the Fotawatimes region, and are now in that of the 
Pawnees. I have seen none of the latter tribe. 
Today we met a few troops from Fort Laramie. 
They say the grass is good in the valley of the 
Platte, distant about one hundred miles. Good 
health on the road generally, though we see a grave 
occasionallv, which reminds us of the admonition, 
''memento mori/' and beneath this inhospitable soil 
are hearts once virtuous ambition. The angel of 
death follows the race of Adam to the uttermost 
parts of the earth. 

"There is no flock however watched and tended, 
But one dead lamb is there ; 
There is no fireside howso'er defended, 
But has one vacant chair." 

May a. 

I 

Today we made some eighteen miles — passed 
two or three little streams, and encamped about 
one mile from the road, by a stream of good water. 
Weather pleasant and warm in the afternoon. 
Met one team returning on account of poor grass 



LITTLE BLUE RIVER. 25 

in advance. It is tolerable where we stop tonight 
in a valley. 

May 5. 

Today we rested, partly to observe the Sabbath 
and partly to let our teams rest. The day has been 
fair, with a cool breeze from the north. Sun sets 
gloriously, with fair promise of tomorrow. About 
fifty wagons went by us today, while others are 
stopping near us. Our men are now engaged in 
the business of the closing day — feeding cattle, etc., 
and others loitering about the wagon and thinking, 
perhaps, of Sabbath evenings spent in a different 
manner. 

May 6. 

Off at sunrise. Reached Little Blue River in the 
evening. Day fine. We crossed several valleys in 
which were channels filled with yellow sand. It 
is probable that water courses through them dur- 
ing the wet seasons. Grass poor. Emigrants 
pushing by us. The Little Blue River is a fine 
stream about ten yards in wadth and deep. 

May 7. 

Went up by Little Blue River fifteen miles, and 
encamped about 4 o'clock, earlier than usual, for 
the purpose of repairing wagon wheels. We are 
getting into the buffalo region; one was seen yes- 
terday and one killed today by a man in another 



26 TEIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

company. I have seen none yet. Prairie hens are 
abundant, and I have had the pleasure of partak- 
ing of one myself. Day fine, excepting a cool 
breeze. 

May 8. 

Encamped again by Little Blue River, after a 
drive of fifteen miles. This morning we met a 
young man in search of a pony, which had strayed 
away from him in the night. He looked quite dis- 
couraged, and well he might, as the lost nag was 
his only means of conveying his provisions and 
clothes. They suspected the Indians. Presently 
we came up to his comrades, where we found their 
things in great confusion, and the man with them 
in a gloomy mood. But they were partially re- 
lieved by some gentlemen who were there when we 
came up, who offered to buy their things or carry 
them for them, as they might prefer. It looks hard 
to meet misfortunes so soon, but many have had 
to submit to them, as is apparent all along the route. 
Horses, mules and oxen have died, wagons have 
broken down, and sickness fell to the lot of some. 
Some of the teams have consumed all of their feed 
and begin to travel more moderately. In this case 
they are compelled to go slow, as the grass is very 
poor. Roads today good and scenery pleasant. 

May 9. 

Commenced our march at sunrise, and drove our 
cattle slowly on account of the poor feed they had 



PLATTE RIVER BOTTOM. 37 

had. Went up the Little Bkie twelve miles, when 
we left it and entered a high prairie country. Dis- 
tance, sixteen miles. 

May io. 

Went on as usual. Met some government wag- 
ons going to Fort Leavenworth. Drove eighteen 
miles and encamped at the border of the Platte 
River bottom. The river itself is some four miles 
distant, and there is no water nearer, nor wood, so 
we are compelled to do without it and make our 
supper of hard bread, etc. But little promise of 
grass. Day pleasant. 

May II. 

Went four miles to the Platte before breakfast. 
Just opposite where we stopped is a large island 
and but a narrow stream on this side ; the water is 
very muddy. We reached Fort Kearney about 4 
o'clock, ten miles further, and stopped for the night 
one mile west of the fort. At Fort Kearney there 
are several plain-looking buildings, mostly com- 
posed of unburnt brick and turf, and some tents, 
though the best houses are wood. One hundred 
fifty soldiers are stationed here. We hope to reach 
Fort Laramie by the end of the month. Grass looks 
a little better in the valley. Day warm. Distance, 
fifteen miles. 



28 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 



May 12. 



This day being Sunday, we rest ourselves, and 
cattle are in need of it. About one hundred wag- 
ons have passed us today ; at times the road would 
be crowded with them for a great distance. 

May 13. 

Having rested yesterday, we made an early start 
this morning, and went five miles before stopping 
to take breakfast. Then went twelve miles farther 
and encamped for the night near the river. The 
stream at this point is from one to two miles wide, 
shallow, and divided by numerous islands. Though 
there is plenty of timber up on the opposite shore, 
and the islands, we have not yet been able to get 
a stick upon this side — not enough for fuel. All 
day we have seen wagons winding along on the 
opposite shore, on the road from Council Blufifs. 
The valley of the river here is broad and beauti- 
ful, stretches away as far as the eye can reach, and 
occasionally presenting upon its blue and white 
profile herds of buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, etc. 
Distance, seventeen miles. 

May 14. 

Some of our cattle having strayed oflf, we were 
delayed a short time in finding them. However, 
we were under way at seven o'clock. Having en- 
camped last night with three additional wagons, 
we all started together this morning, and I hope we 



RUNAWAY HORSES. 29 

may continue so. Our new associates appear like 
upright men — men who would respect justice 
where there is no law. At night we stopped one 
mile west of Plum Creek in a most delightful 
place, the beauty of which I am incapable of faith- 
fully delinea^ 'ng. Distance, seventeen miles. 

May 15. 

Off early, pursuing our course up the Platte ; val- 
ley wide and bordered by high bluffs ; at places they 
are divided by deep ravines, giving us a peep at the 
background. Today one of our party had the good 
luck to kill an antelope, and we had the pleasure of 
partaking of it for supper. The meat is very sweet 
and tender, and after living for nearly a month on 
salt pork, it was decidedly relishable. The Indians 
visit the road but very little, which is not much 
regretted by the emigrants. Last night a man 
came to one of our wagons who was in search of 
horses, which had become frightened and ran away 
from his company. They lost nine, which were all 
they had. This is a great loss. The grass is but 
little better here than it was at Weston ; the season 
has been cold and dry. Distance, twenty-two 
miles. 

May 16. 

Traveled over a level country ; saw some antelope 
and was passed by a train of wagons from Galena, 
Wis. Tonight we stopped near the river. I never 
saw finer horses than are on this road, especially 



30 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

those from Wisconsin and Illinois. Distance, fif- 
teen miles. 

May 17. 

Continued our march over beautiful prairie 
country, and encamped in the afternoon upon a 
green plain not far from the Platte. I forgot to 
mention before that when we reached the fort but 
nine hundred wagons had been reported as having 
passing this Spring, and about one hundred more 
have gone ahead since then. From this we per- 
ceive that we are comparatively among the first 
of the emigrants this season. A few pass us every 
day, but as we are passing others, it is difficult to 
tell how many really keep in advance of us. Dis- 
tance, fifteen miles. 

May 18. 

In our course today we left the Platte several 
miles to the right and entered on a high region. 
At noon we stopped by a small stream of good 
w^ater, Vv^hich winds along in an easterly direction 
between the hills and the river. In the evening we 
stopped on the same stream higher up. Grass poor. 
Today we met a man who was in search of a horse 
which had run away from him in a buffalo herd. 
He had himself become lost, a considerable distance 
from the road, was without food or arms, except a 
single pistol. Saw numerous herds of buffalo and 
represented the country as barren and desolate. 
His horse had been taken up by another company, 



HERDS OF BUFFALOES. 31 

and when we saw him, he was in search of his own. 
Day warm. Distance, seventeen miles. 

May 19. 

In consequence of there being little grass where 
we stopped last night, we were off early this morn- 
ing, and intended to cross the south fork of the 
Platte before we stopped, which we supposed was 
about ten miles distant. Today I saw almost 
countless numbers of buffalo. I saw several shot 
and a great many dead by the road. They are 
huge animals, some of them larger than any I ever 
saw; ran in a clumsy sort of canter, yet they are 
not slow, as it takes a good horse to overtake them. 
A man stayed with us last night who had got lost 
while in pursuit of the game. He and another 
man had killed three, and had some choice cuts 
with them. In the morning I lent my rifle to one 
of our party who wished to go hunting. In a 
couple of hours he came up with the gun broken; 
he said it w^as done in a hand-to,-hand encounter 
with a buffalo. But I shall not state the particu- 
lars, as I have reason to discredit his story. About 
noon we reached the south fork of the Platte and 
crossed it immediately. This river where we cross 
it is about one mile wide, with an average depth of 
about one foot. It is entirely different from any 
other river I ever saw in the States. The bed of 
the river is a kind of quicksand, into which a horse 
will sink several inches by standing still a few mo- 
ments. Another of our men has just returned 



32 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

from buffalo hunting. He suceeded in killing one, 
but not till he had fired twelve bullets at it. The 
balls at the head rebounded as from the solid rock. 
This evening one of our men found a human skull 
near our wagons. It was perforated by a ball just 
above the left eye and through the back of the 
head. We examined it and conjectured how it 
came here — whether Indian or white, male or fe- 
male. But all our conjectures could not draw from 
its eyeless hole one ray of its history, nor awake 
a slumbering echo in its hollow ear. "Alas, poor 
Yorick! Is that a place where a god may dwell?'' 
We have passed more than fifty wagons today. In 
the afternoon a thunder shower came up in the 
west, and for two or three hours threatened heavy 
rain; and at length, after shedding a few drops, 
it passed roimd to the south. We have been just 
one week in coming from Fort Kearney, a dis- 
tance of 125 miles. At this rate we shall reach 
Fort Laramie by the first of June. The grass is 
poor in this region, and is never so good here as in 
the districts we have passed. I have not seen an 
Indian in two weeks, but I presume they have seen 
us every day. Distance, fifteen miles. 

May 20. 

We continued our march up the south fork of 
the Platte some ten miles, where we crossed over 
the bluffs which lie between the two streams, and 
after going two miles we reached the north fork at 
about noon. In the afternoon we continued up on 



THE UPPER PLATTE. 33 

the south side of the north flat. At this point the 
river wears the same general characteristics as the 
lower Platte. The banks are lower and the soil 
less productive, but the stream is wide, shallow, 
and filled with islands or sand-bars. Tonight we 
feed our cattle on two of these little islands, near 
the south shore. The grass is very poor here. Two 
of our party who went out yesterday morning to 
hunt have not yet returned. It is very easy to get 
lost on these vast wilds, as the country is very much 
alike, and in pursuing game, the uninitiated thinks 
of very little beside. Distance, twenty miles. 

May 21. 

This morning, after going some two miles up the 
banks of the river, we turned off to the south and 
wound up over the bluffs, and traveled a level, dry 
region, almost destitute of vegetation. After 
going over this table-land for about twelve miles, 
we again came down to the river, through a steep 
and sandy ravine. Our feet would sink into the 
sand some six or eight inches in walking over it, 
and was thrown up in showers by the wheels of our 
wagons. We stopped for the night some twelve 
miles farther beyond where we reached the bot- 
tom. The day has been warm, though cloudy. 
The earth is parched with drought, and if rain 
does not fall soon, vegetation will be entirely 
checked. The flood of emigrants is rushing past 
and behind us, all in haste to surpass each other in 
reaching the land of gold. Some of the fastest 



34 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

travelers have already gained much time upon us; 
a few have gone by us who started as late as the 
fifth and sixth of May. But they are now com- 
pelled to go more slow, as the feed with which they 
supplied themselves on the start is exhausted, and 
their teams are becoming weak. One of our party 
waded across the Platte today for the purpose of 
ascertaining the condition of the grass on the other 
side, as from our side it looks quite forward. The 
water was nowhere above his knees. Two of our 
men who left us on Sunday for the purpose of 
huntmg buffaloes have returned. They were com- 
pletely tired of their sport, having succeeded in 
capturing one of those huge animals and wound- 
ing half ? dozen more. Distance, nineteen miles. 

May 22. 

After going up the Platte two miles from camp, 
we left the stream and went over the bluffs, in con- 
sequence of the river banks being high and broken. 
The road was not so good today, as we had to go 
through deep sand most of the way. We stopped 
at night at the mouth of Ash Hollow, at which 
place the road that goes up the South Platte came 
in. A' the lower end there are several springs and 
a little timber, such as ash and cedar, and some 
shrubbery. We are now in the territory of the 
Sioux Indians, a party of whom are now about our 
wagons. They ^re very desirous to beg or buy 
provisions, particularly sugar, coffee, and liquor. 
The chief was here and made himself known to us. 



AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 35 

Their dress is very simple and confined to adults, 
the children going naked, except a bit of cloth 
fastened about their loins. This tribe is quite 
friendly, and the chief signified that anything that 
we might lay out of our wagons would be perfectly 
safe. They look quite intelligent for Indians and 
superior to what I had expected to see. Some of 
them are now practicing with their bows and ar- 
rows for the amusement of the emigrants. The 
wind has been very high all day and the dust 
troublesome. The sun has just sunk down in the 
west, casting a crimson flush upon the dark clouds 
that hang like a dark curtain drawn across the west. 
Companies of emigrants have encamped all arouuvd 
us, and should the Indians make an attack upon 
us, at least two hundred men could be gathered in 
ten minutes. Distance, twenty-five miles. 

/ 

May 23. 

Today we continued our travel over a sandy soil, 
making slow progress in consequence. We set out 
at daybreak, and after going a couple of miles, 
came to an Indian village. They live in tents made 
of buffalo skins. These skins they support on 
poles set round in a circle on the ground, and 
fastened together at the top. In cold weather they 
make their fires in the center of the tent and have 
an aperture in the top for the smoke to escape. 
These Indians, like all others, are always ready 
to trade, and will sometimes give enormous prices 
for articles they happen to fancy. Sugar and cof- 



3-6 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

fee are prized very highly by them. I have known 
them to give from $i to $3 per pint for the first, 
and as they seem to have plenty of money just now, 
it will be a profitable trade for those who have a 
surplus of these articles. Before I left the United 
States I was not aware that these articles could be 
sold at such prices among the Indians. Distance, 
twenty miles. 

May 24. 

Traveling two miles this morning, we came to 
another Indian encampment of some thirty- five 
tents. They were encamped upon a beautiful and 
expansive plain. These Indians are of the same 
character of those we saw yesterday. When we 
passed by, the sun was just rising and the scene 
was quite picturesque. These Indians have a large 
number of ponies and mules, which were scattered 
over the valley feeding, while several Indians in 
their blue and white blankets and bufifalo skins 
were watching them. There were four or five 
dogs about each tent, and as we passed they gave 
us a satisfactory display of vocal sounds. These 
dogs are an inferior-looking brute and from imagi- 
nation appear a little wolfish. They howl rather 
than bark, and when a number of them are in con- 
cert, it sounds singularly mournful and plaintive. 
The road becomes better as we advance and the 
grass better than we have before seen. In fact, 
this is the earliest period at which the grass can 
be considered fit for working cattle. Distance, 
twenty miles. 



A REAL HAIL STORM. 37 

May 25. 

A short distance beyond our stopping place we 
crossed a small stream called Small Creek. Soon 
after, we came in sight of those promised curi- 
osities, the Courthouse and Chimney Rock, the first 
appearing in the distance like the dome of an im- 
mense building and the latter like a tower or 
straight column. At noon, we came nearly oppo- 
site the Court House, and as it appeared but a 
short distance from the road, some of our men de- 
termined to go to it and satisfy their curiosity. 
They went, and by fast walking, overtook us about 
four o'clock in the afternoon. It is about seven 
miles from the trail, and appears very fine, being 
discernable from all points. It is composed of an 
immense mass of rock, raising from 300 to 500 
feet above the level of the plain, and of a conical 
shape at the summit, from which it derives its 
name. Chimney Rock is about twelve miles fur- 
ther, and seven miles from where we stop tonight. 
At noon we crossed another stream, the largest 
since we crossed Little Blue River, and good water. 
It comes in from the south, a little east of the Court 
House. This afternoon we had a fine specimen of 
a hail storm in this region. A dark mass of clouds 
were gathering for several hours in the west, till 
our path was overhung with an impenetrable cur- 
tain of black, and at length the wind, w^hich was 
blowing from the east, turned back, and the storm 
rushed upon us. It was a real hail storm. When 
it commenced beating;, upon our cattle, they became 



38 TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

intractaWe, but we succeeded in unfastening them 
from the wagons, and having driven them behind 
the wagons, they bore it as well as might have been 
expected. The hail stones were the largest I ever 
saw, some of them being as large as hens' eggs, 
and striking with force sufficient to make a man 
seek a shelter as soon as convenient. It continued 
some twenty minutes, when it stopped and we com- 
menced our march ; but we had not gone far when 
it recommenced, and we were compelled to turn 
around and wait till it ceased. But wx have reason 
to be thankful, as we did not feel the worst of the 
storm. Two of our men who were in advance to 
find a stopping-place for the night were less fortu- 
nate than ourselves. Where they were, the hail- 
stones were as large as lemons and with force 
enough to bruise a man severely. Our party in ad- 
vance were on horses, and as they became fractious, 
they could not shelter themselves, and had to take 
the full force of the storm. One of our men re- 
ceived a severe bruise on his head, caused by a 
hail-stone. But the storm soon blew over and the 
sun set behind a crimson curtain of transparent 
clouds. Distance, twenty miles. 

May 26. 

Today being Sunday, we determined to lay by 
till noon and let our cattle rest, and go on in the 
afternoon to the vicinity of Chimney Rock, which 
would afford better feed and give us an opportunity 
to examine this great natural curiosity. A large 



CHIMNEY ROCK. 39 

number of teams passed us in the forenoon, which 
made some of our party impatient to be going. 1 
said we stopped to let our cattle rest, for the men 
were nearly all engaged in such matters as become 
necessary, such as washing their clothes, airing 
their bedding, and such other things as could not 
be done on the way. By four o'clock we were op- 
posite Chimney Rock, and after going a short dis- 
tance further we stopped for the night. In com- 
pany witl: some others of our party, I started for 
the Rock, some two miles distant. The lower por- 
tion of it is thrown up like a mound in a conical 
shape, to the height of about two hundred feet, and 
upon this rests a perpendicular column of some 
twenty feet in diameter, and about one hundred 
feet high. By some, the height of the rock is com- 
puted at from five hundred to eight hundred feet, 
iDUt I have put it as it appeared to me. The lowxr 
portion is composed of baked clay, and the upper 
part of a kind of soft rock, darker in color than 
the base. T saw thousands of names which were 
engraved upon the plaster material, and intended 
to carve my own, but was prevented by a storm 
coming on. It continued to rain that evening, and 
as there was a cold wind, and we had no fuel ex- 
cept a liitle we had in our wagons, it was anything 
but pleasant ; but as we went to bed early, we soon 
forgot the rain beneath comfortable blankets. 
Though the ground was wet, a good buflfalo robe 
was sufficient to keep out dampness all night. High 
bluffs are visible on each side of us, and in ad- 
vance. Distance, eight miles. 



40 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

May 27. 

P'or a few days past we have got up and started 
about two o'clock in the morning, and so we did 
this morning. So after we set out, it recommenced 
raining and continued till we stopped for breakfast. 
Some of our men swore if they were at home they 
would not be caught here again, and it was dis- 
agreeable, trying to kindle a fire of wet fuel, being 
wet ourselves, and still getting more damp and 
chilly if possible. But at length the clouds broke 
away, and having refreshed ourselves with some 
warm breakfast, we went on our way rejoicing. 
We left the river in the early part of the day, and 
traveled upon a high plain, with Scotts Bluffs as 
the boundary. In the evening we reached the 
bluffs, where we encamped. In this region wood 
and water is very scarce, and we were not able to 
collect during the day so much as we needed; but 
this might be remedied by taking them in previ- 
ously if we had known what was in advance. At 
the Bluffs we found several little springs, but they 
were between such precipitous banks that it was 
almost impossible to get our cattle to them, and 
some of them entirely beyond their reach. Here 
we found a little wood, consisting of a few speci- 
mens of stunted cedar scattered upon the bluffs and 
in the ravines, and a little dry wood in the valley, 
having been washed down by the rain. This lat- 
ter is most excellent fuel, having been exposed to 
the sun for years, and as dry as powder. Some of 
the best teams begin to go our pace and will be 



LARAMIE RIVER. 41 

thankful if they can maintain it. Distance, 
twenty-three miles. 

May 28. 

After proceeding a couple of miles, we came to 
an Indian encampment and also a place where 
blacksmithing was done, and on a little further we 
ascended the bluffs and traveled over a level, high 
country and came to the Platte again in the after- 
noon and encamped at night in the valley of that 
stream. This morning we had the first view of 
the Rocky Mountains, 150 miles distant. Laramie 
Peal: looks like a vast sugar loaf. We see a little 
timber today by the Platte, such as cedar, pine 
and poplar. Day warm, and sand deep. Dis- 
tance, twenty-five miles. 

May 29. 

After traveling five miles, we came to a trading 
place, which was occupied by some half dozen men 
and some thirty or forty Sioux Indians. They had 
clothing, but no provisions, which were most 
sought by the emigrants. This place is within 
twenty miles of Fort Laramie, and we have been 
so successful in getting over the ground that we 
feel no small degree of gratification. At three 
o'clock we came to Laramie River and forded it 
and encamped about one half mile beyond by the 
road opposite the Fort, which is a mile or more 
to the south of it. In consequence of the lateness 
of our arrival and the determination of our party 
to proceed early in the morning, I could not find 



42 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

time to visit it, but was compelled to satisfy my 
curiosity at a distance. From where I now am I 
can see several respectable looking- buildings, look- 
ing the most like civilization of anything that I 
have seen since I left Weston. Laramie River has 
the same characteristics as the Platte, only much 
smaller, and about four feet deep where we forded 
it. A large number of emigrants change their 
mode of travel at this place — from wagons to pack- 
ing — for the purpose of hastening their arrival in 
the gold regions. In doing this, some of them 
abandon much property, such as guns, tools, bed- 
ding, clothing, and more especially wagons and 
harness. I was told last evening that two men had 
just thrown their rifles into the Platte, having tried 
to sell them to no purpose, and being determined 
that no one should profit by the loss. Good wagons 
can be bought for a mere trifle, and many of them 
can be had for nothing. An excellent one was sold 
here yesterday at $7 and with it a lot of other valu- 
ables thrown into the bargain. Near us in this val- 
ley there is a very large number of emigrants en- 
camped, stopping for the purpose of some business 
and seeing the Fort. I should think there were 
about 500 wagons and 2,000 men. Provisions, 
biscuit and bacon can be obtained at the Fort in 
small quantities by those who are in need of them, 
sufficient to last them to Salt Lake. Biscuit, $14 
per pound. Though we are on the first part of 
our journey, we see many things left by the way, 
but everything of any value is examined and per- 



TRIALS AND HARDSHIPS. 43 

haps taken a short distance by those who come 
after, when they in turn cast them away; and 
others still encumber themselves as before. I have 
seen men take hold of a log chain and drag it for 
several rods, knowing at the same time that they 
could not take it with them; but having large ac- 
quisitiveness, they would cling to it from the force 
of habit, or in hopes that some lucky circumstance 
would turn up that would enable them to sell it. 
A man was at our camp this morning who had a 
rifle, a hatchet, and a shovel, which he offered to 
sell for two dollars, but could not, so he gave the 
rifle to one of our party and took the rest along. 
The soil is poor and sandy here and the grass short 
and dry. Distance, twenty-five miles. 

May 30. 

At three o'clock this morning we were under way 
and continued up the Platte, and having gone six- 
teen miles by two o'clock, we stopped for the night, 
our cattle being much in need of feed and rest, 
having traveled hard and found but little feed in 
the vicinitv of the Fort. Some three miles before 
v^e stopped we left the river and ascended the table- 
land, passing over innumerable little knobs, upon 
which is scattered a little cedar and pine. In a ra- 
vine near the camp is an excellent spring of water 
and tolerably good grass. In the afternoon a dark 
cloud arose in the west, and soon came thunder 
and lightning and rain ; and now while I am writ- 
ing it is dancing upon our tent in a fine manner — 



! 



44 TJirP TO CALIFORNIA. 

a manner peculiar to this country. At length the 
clouds cleared away and our party concluded to 
proceed a few miles further. Accordingly, we col- 
lected our cattle, yoked them, and drove about five 
miles further. In the afternoon we passed some 
soldiers who were engaged in burning lime for the 
Fort. One of them wanted to buy liquor; said 
he had that day offered $i6 per gallon for brandy^ 
to an emigrant but could not get it. One of our 
company sold him a drink of whiskey for fifty 
cents. Distance, twenty-one miles. 

May 31. 

Going two miles this morning, we came to a lit- 
tle stream called the Little Cottonweed. Our trail 
led over a hilly country, presenting every variety 
of scenery, from the level plain to the bold bluffs, 
with here a few shrubs of pine and cedar. These 
evergreens are the only objects generally which en- 
liven the plains in which they are found, as they 
usually grow in the moist barrens and indescrib- 
able places, deep ravines and nearly naked rocks. 
At length we have come into the region of wild 
sage, so well known and so much hated by the emi- 
grant, as it grows in the most inhospitable regions. 
It is a low, bushy shrub, with thick and light-col- 
ored leaves, resembling to some extent the leaf of 
the cultivated sage and exhaling a similar scent. 
Our road is very circuitous. We have, in a few 
hours, traveled toward every point of the compass. 
Laramie Peak, which we first saw from Scotts 



LARAMIE PEAK. 45 

Bluffs, is still in sight, several miles to the south 
of us. Its snow-capped summit presents a strong 
contrast to the green hill and prairie, which are just 
putting on their summer apparel. Today we 
swapped our wagon for one we found abandoned 
by the road. We made a good trade. Distance, 
twenty-one miles. 

June i. 

Still among the hills. In the afternoon over a 
high, level plain. Stopped at night by a little 
stream, a short distance from the Blue Mountain. 
Day fine. Distance, twenty-five miles. 

June 2. 

Today we moved on till we came to a little 
stream about four miles from our last night's stop- 
ping-place. One mile from where we stopped, we 
crossed a little stream called Mountain Blue. We 
have not found a more beautiful place than where 
we stopped today — plenty of wood, water and 
grass. Day fine; health good. There is a novel 
feature in this region in the existence of a red sand 
which gives to the prospect a very picturesque char- 
acter. I suppose it was caused by volcanic fires, 
which burned perhaps centuries ago. A soft qual- 
ity of marble also abounds here, and many of our 
party have smoothed pieces of it and written or 
carved their names, dates, and other laconic bits 
of news upon them for their friends behind them. 
I cut a level surface upon a piece and wrote thus: 



46 TIUP TO CALIFORNIA. 

"C, W. vSmith, Centreville, Indiana. 'On the night's 
Plutonian shore/ June 2, 1850." The country 
over which we aie passing is becoming very rocky 
and broken, and 1 am surprised that we can pass 
over it with so little difficulty. Sometimes we pass 
along an extensive range of hills, sometimes 
through a deep gorge or dry-bed of a stream, and 
then again winding along a serpentine track, thus 
ever changing from scene to scene, deriving new 
interest from them all and learning each day some- 
thing more of the many wonders of nature. Dis- 
tance, four miles. 

June 3. 

Having refreshed ourselves yesterday (Sunday) 
by the river La Bronte, we proceeded this morning 
in good spirits; about ten o'clock we crossed the 
river ''a la Psetc (Prele?)"" ten or twelve feet in 
width, and at night encamped on La Boisce. Great 
variety of scenery. A t noon we had a heavy 
shower of rain, which increased the water in the 
creeks to an almost impassable height. Tonight 
the sky is obscured by heavy masses of dark clouds 
that sit with portentous aspect upon the brows of 
the mountains. The valleys of the tributaries of 
the Platte through which we have passed are nar- 
row and winding, with little timber, such as wil- 
lows, lind, Cottonwood and poplars, beside a little 
cedar and pine, in the ravines and on the bluffs. 
Distance, twenty-three miles. 



WHERE MILES ARE LONG. 47 

June 4. 

Going nine miles brought us to a stream called 
Deer Creek, about twenty yards wide and with a 
strong current. Crossed one more stream during 
the day. Muddy, crooked creek, and encamped in 
the valley of the Platte, twelve miles from the 
stream. Country more level by the Platte. Weather 
pleasant. Distance, eighteen miles. 

June 5. 

Distances are very deceptive here. A range of 
mountains to our left appeared about two miles oif ; 
became the object of curiosity to some of our party 
from the fact that there was snow upon its summit, 
and so they concluded to walk across the plain and 
ascend them and get some of the snow, if such it 
was, which some of them doubted. They started 
about 2 p. M. and as we laid by this afternoon, they 
supposed it a good opportunity. At sundown our 
explorers returned, much fatigued. They had 
walked the entire afternoon after they had left us. 
The top of the mountains was about twelve miles 
distant, and they had been there. They brought a 
snowball and declared that what they saw was 
worth their labor. Distance, twelve miles. 

June 6. 

We started early this morning, in order to get 
ferried across the Platte before those who stopped 
behind us over night. One mile's travel brought us 



48 TFJP TO CALIFORNIA. 

to the ferry, and our wagons were taken across 
without delay. There are three boats running 
across abreast, though conducted by different men. 
Price per wagon $4.00. They were not wilHng to 
ferry our cattle over, so we drove them up a short 
distance, and made them swim the stream. The 
boats are run on a very simple principal and a very 
good one. A long line is stretched across the river, 
secured at each end. To this are placed two pulley 
wheels, which are fastened to ropes attached to the 
boat at each end, and the forward rope being the 
shortest, the side of the boat is brought to the force 
of the current and forced across. Two wagons are 
placed in a boat each trip, which is made in about 
ten minutes. All being safely over, about 8 o'clock 
we resumed our march, leaving the river and fol- 
lowing the trail over a high range of country, desti- 
tute of wood and water. At noon we stopped a 
short time at Alkali Pond — very poor water and 
grass; and being none better within fifteen miles, 
we pushed on in order to reach them by night. At 
sundown we came from a stream which comes 
from what are called Willow Springs, about two 
miles further on. Stopped here. This being a 
general stopping place, the grass is poor. The 
stream is small and the valley narrow. On the up- 
land there is no vegetation worth mentioning, ex- 
cept wild sage, which grows in stunted clumps all 
over the country. We see mountain peaks to the 
left and in advance, the first being a range of the 
Black Hills and the second the Rattlesnake Moun- 
tains, I suppose. Distance, twenty-six miles. 



INDEPENDENCE ROCK. 49 

June 7. 

After traveling over a rough country till noon, 
we came to Grease Creek and encamped on it near 
Rattlesnake Rock. We stopped about two o'clock 
for the purpose of resting and letting our cattle 
feed, as we had just come over a portion of the 
route nearly destitute of grass and water. We 
came by one little stream which is known to be poi- 
sonous, the water being strongly impregnated with 
alkali. We learn by some emigrants since we 
passed this stream that a company who were ig- 
norant of the nature of the water let their horses 
drink it, and many of them died in consequence. 
Distance, fourteen miles. 

June 8. 

Today at noon we reached the Sweetwater, much 
elated, as we had been on the muddy Platte for 
more than twenty days. The river is here about 
six rods wide, and deep ; water tolerably good, not 
quite clear. Another mile brought us to the far- 
famed Independence Rock. I climbed up its ab- 
rupt, rocky sides, and spent a few minutes in walk- 
ing about its summit, though I had not time to ex- 
amine it as I wished. It is composed of solid rock 
of a light red clay color, about one eighth of a mile 
long and two hundred feet high. There are huge 
masses of grotesque rocks lying upon its sides and 
summit, some of which weighed hundreds of tons 
and appear as if they could be shoved off by the 



50 TEIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

hand. On the prominent points of this rock are 
carved and painted thousands of names, in all 
styles and sizes ; some are put high up on the ledges, 
where it must have been difficult to place them, and 
others nearer the ground. I looked for a familiar 
name, but could find none, though I saw all the 
states inscribed, as the former residences of these 
pilgrims. One half mile further on we crossed the 
Sweet Water, and in the afternoon went bv what is 
called The Devil's Gate, a narrow channel of the 
stream, through a pass of the Rattlesnake Moun- 
tains. Looking down into the stream from the 
rocks hundreds of feet high, it is said that the 
Sweet Water appears as a mere rivulet. Some of 
our party climbed to the top of the Gate and 
boasted of having done some daring climbing. We 
are now surrounded by mountains, entirely barren, 
except a few stunted cedars or other evergreens. 
The range on the south is partly covered with snow. 
Distance, twenty-two miles. 

June 9. 

Started in the morning. A shower at noon. 
Distance, fourteen miles. 

June 10. 

After proceeding up the river for fourteen 
miles, we left it for sixteen miles. At night we 
stopped at the Ice Springs. The water is very bad 
here, so much so that we dare not let our cattle 



SWEET WATER VALLEY. &1 

drink it. We see many evidences of its fatality in 
the many horses and cattle in the vicinity. Dis- 
tance, twenty miles. 

June ii. 

Started early and reached the Sweet Water 
again about lo o'clock, having gone some ten miles. 
We were delayed an hour in the morning to find 
our cattle that had strayed off. Many of our cat- 
tle show the effects of bad water and today our 
best yoke gave out, having to take them from the 
wagon and drive them slowly behind. Distance, 
ten miles. 

June 12. 

Still by the Sweet Water. The valley is becom- 
ing more narrow and the stream more rapid. In 
advance and a little to the north of our trail, we can 
see the Wind River Mountains. Their lofty sum- 
mits are covered with snow, and in their dazzling 
whiteness appear truly sublime. From their great 
height and the transparency of the air, they look 
not far off, though they are probably not less than 
seventy-five miles. In the afternoon I walked over 
a body of snow lying near the road, and as it had 
retreated down the bank, it was interesting to no- 
tice how the grass and flowers had followed, a bar- 
ren space of not more than three yards intervening 
winter's snow and summer's flowers. Pleasant 
day, just cool enough to be agreeable. The grass 



53 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

is becoming better, as there are numerous springs 
in this vicinity, by which it grows. Distance, 
nineteen miles. 

June 13. 

Started early this morning and went two and 
three quarters miles to the North Sweet Water, 
where we took breakfast and stopped till noon. In 
the afternoon we crossed Willow Creek, and at 
night encamped on a fine little brook of crystal 
water about one mile from the main road. Today 
we have felt that we are in a high region. We see 
snow in all directions — on the mountains, on the 
hills and in the ravines — and here, a few yards 
above me, an extensive bed reflects the rays of the 
setting sun over a bed of sweet pink flowers which 
peep up through the fresh grass. The grass is 
good here, though rather short. We are now 
within about ten miles of the South Pass, which 
we will probably reach by tomorrow noon. We see 
no longer any of the large companies which over- 
took us on the outset of the journey. They have 
invariably broken up into small companies of five 
or six wagons. This is the best plan, especially 
when there is no danger to be apprehended from 
the Indians. It is impossible for large companies 
to improve the time like small companies. The 
great difficulty is there is too much hesitation on the 
plains, which invariably results in disagreement. 
Distance, eleven miles. 



CROSSING A DESERT. 53 

June 14. 

After going a little over a mile, we crossed the 
Sweet Water for the last time, leaving it to our 
right. At noon we were at the South Pass, where 
we stopped for a short time.^ In the afternoon we 
passed the Pacific Springs and encamped within 
about two miles of Little Sandy. In the afternoon 
it rained very hard, and now, at sundown, as heavy 
a cloud as I ever saw is coming up in the west. Dis- 
tance, seventeen miles. 

June 15. 

Quite cool last night, so much so that we could 
not keep warm between a buffalo robe and two 
good blankets. The night before last was cold 
also. Water froze over near our camp. After 
three miles' travel this morning we came to what is 
called Dry Sandy. In the valley there is no water 
at this season of the year. We passed down the 
valley six miles, when we came to the fork in the 
roads — the Salt Lake and Subletts (?) — cut off, 
the former leading down by Sandy and the latter 
keeping to the right, west. Five miles more 
brought us to the Little Sandy, where we stopped 
for the night. Tomorrow we shall go but six 
miles to Big Sandy, where we shall prepare to cross 
a desert, as it is called, stretching from that stream 
to Green River, a distance of forty miles, which is 
generally traveled in the night. Distance, six 
miles. 



M TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

June i6. 

Today we laid by to prepare to cross the desert 
from Big Sandy to Green River. This afternoon 
I went up this stream about three miles to cut grass 
for our cattle while crossing the desert. I was en- 
gaged half a day in cutting two small sacks full 
with a knife. Then I came back to the wagons and 
started down the stream for more grass, but found 
it more scarce than ever. There is but little grass 
in this region, excepting the creek bottoms, and 
thev are few and narrow. 

June 17. 

As it was agreed to start early, I went in com- 
pany with some others to fetch our cattle from 
some three miles up the river, where they had been 
feeding. A snowstorm came on about daybreak 
and I had the full benefit of it. I walked several 
miles in search of a couple of ponies that belonged 
to the company and was at last compelled to return 
without them. The face of the country there is 
nearly destitute of vegetation, wild sage, grease- 
wood and an occasional bunch of grass being the 
entire product of the soil. We left Big Sandy at 
about eleven and a half a. m. with the intention of 
traveling all night and reaching Green River the 
next morning. We pushed on as fast as we could 
against a strong wind and a blinding dust. A lit- 
tle before sundown we stopped an hour for supper 
and to feed our cattle, having gone fifteen miles. 



BIG SANDY TO GREEN RIVER. * 55 

This over, we entered the night, and the most tedi- 
ous part of our journey. With the sun went down 
the wind and we hoped that an agreeable night 
would follow such a boisterous day. But we were 
disappointed. A dark cloud overcast the sky and 
soon a snowstorm came drifting in our faces, and 
continued all night. At twelve o'clock we stopped 
to rest and feed our cattle, and then pushed on till 
eight o'clock in the morning, when we reached the 
Green River. The country between these streams 
is not so barren as I was led to suppose. It is but 
little more so than much of the ground we had 
passed over before, west of Fort Laramie. Green 
River is about i,ooo feet lower than Big Sandy. 
Upon this stretch of forty miles there is not a drop 
of water, and this is the reason why it is so barren. 
Our cattle stood the drive very well. In the morn- 
ing the sun shone out clear and warm and the thin 
mantle of snow soon disappeared beneath his 
beams. Distance, forty-six miles. 

June i8. 

About 7 o'clock this morning we came within 
sight of Green River, apparently not far off, but 
several hundred feet below us. After the most dis- 
agreeable night's travel I ever experienced, we 
were elated at the prospect of being so near a stop- 
ping-place, but on following the trail we had to go 
about three miles further before we got down to 
the river. Green River is about twenty rods wide 
here and so deep that it has to be ferried. In the 



56 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

Spring it is said it can be forded, but it is swollen 
now in consequence of the snow melting at its 
sources. There are two ferries, which charge $7 
per wagon. We made arrangements to have ours 
crossed this evening, and accordingly they were 
taken over without accident. I am told that four 
men were drowned the other day in attempting to 
cross on a raft. Some companies find it difficult to 
make their horses and cattle swim the stream, but 
ours went over without trouble. We found the 
grass rather scarce near the ferry, and drove our 
cattle t?iree miles up the river, where it was first- 
rate. In company wnth three others of our party, 
I went up about sundown to watch the cattle over 
night. Nowhere upon the way have I found a 
more beautiful place than this. The valley of ^he 
river is broad and Spring's first fresh carpet of 
grass adorned with fragrant flowers. The numer- 
ous varieties of shrubs divided and subdivided the 
valley into picturesque lawns, and gave more va- 
riety to the scenery. We built a good fire of dry 
v/ood, and spreading our buffalo robes upon the 
grass, we laid down to rest, one watching at a time 
and being relieved at intervals by the others. 

June 19. 

This morning we drove the cattle back to the 
wagons and taking breakfast while our company 
were preparing to start, we were on the march by 
7 o'clock. Here we entered a decidedly mountain- 
ous country and our road is very crooked. After 



A LUDICROUS INCIDENT. 57 

windijig over and around the mountains for about 
eight miles, we came to a tributary of Green River, 
which we expect to travel up for several miles. We 
went two miles up this stream and rested for an 
hour or two. We found good grass by driving our 
cattle across the stream, which is narrow and deep. 
Quite a ludicrous incident occurred here. As I 
said, the stream is deep, though narrow, our cattle 
being compelled to swim it when only eight or ten 
yards wide. Well, when we were ready to start, 
somebody must cross over to bring the cattle back. 
After some equivocations, two men were chosen, 
and having undressed and went a little higher up 
the stream, they plunged in, but instead of swim- 
ming, they struck their knees upon the bottom, and 
having raised upright in two feet depth of water, 
walked the remainder of the way across, amid the 
laughter of the whole company. We crossed to 
the south side of the stream about two miles fur- 
ther on and left it. After going seven miles fur- 
ther we came to another, and two miles more, an*- 
other still, by which we stopped for the night. We 
see snow all round us an(J have very cool nights. 
Distance, nineteen miles. 

June 20. 

Continued our march over a mountainous coun- 
try, the most rough I ever saw. From some of the 
elevations we could see the trail for miles, dotted 
with men, horses and, more distinctly, the white- 
covered wagons. We passed numerous small 



58 TBIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

streams, flowing from the mountains. After going- 
about seventeen miles, we reached Ham's Fork of 
Green River, and encamped four miles beyond it 
on the open prairie, where we found good grass, 
and water we had in store. The day has been 
pleasant, more so than any we have had since we 
left the Sweet Water. This morning I had a fine 
view of the Bear River Mountains, about seventy- 
five miles distance, stretching around the sky 
from ^he south to the southwest. Their summits 
are covered with spotless snow. At Ham's Fork I 
saw another party of the Snake River Indians. 
Most of them looked very squalid and miserable, 
and beg provisions of all they can. They are less 
prepossessing than the Sioux, though they are well 
supplied with guns and horses. They are good 
horsemen and use their sharp-pointed arrows with 
the certainty of a bullet. The mosquitoes began to 
trouble us today for the first time. We expect they 
will lay a long siege to our blood. Distance, 
twenty-one miles. 

June 21. 

Country continues very mountainous. In the 
afternoon we passed over a very high range, to de- 
scend which ropes had been used by former emir 
grants on a trail near the one we took. We had 
two wheels of our wagon locked for more than a 
mile, and then it was hard to keep it from running 
over the cattle. The mosquitoes stick to us like 
genuine friends, especially during the day; at night 



BEAR RIVER VALLEY. 59 

it is too cool for them. At noon we stopped by a 
fine stream of water, in a deep gorge of the moun- 
tains. In the afternoon we ascended another high 
range of mountains, from the summits of which we 
could see far below us into Bear River Valley. 
This stream is as large as the Sweet Water, and 
courses its way through a rich and beautiful val- 
ley, from three to six miles in width. We en- 
camped in the valley at night by a large pond of 
very poor water, but the grass was excellent. Dis- 
tance, twenty-two miles. 

June 22. 

Continued down the vallev of Bear River. In 
the forenoon we passed four branches of the 
stream, which came within a few yards of each 
other. Some of them were deep and all difficult to 
cross, but we got over in safety. There is good 
grass in this valley. Four miles after dinner 
brought us to Smith's Fork, which we crossed in 
safety, though we had to raise our wagon-beds in 
order to keep them dry. Day warm. Thunder 
and lightning, but no rain. The river makes a 
sudden bend south, and the trail leaves it and lies 
over a spur of the mountains, reaching it again in 
about eight miles. After going about four miles, 
we came to a long and difficult hill. In the valley 
east of it is a stream, which empties into Bear River 
within sight. Some of our company thought we 
could reach the river by sunset, but the first ascent 
being set at nought, their calculations were wrong. 



60 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

It was nearly sunset by the time we reached the 
summit, and here, without wood or water, our cat- 
tle being tired, and one having fallen dead in com- 
ing up, we determined to stop for the night. A 
party of us returned to the stream for water, to 
make coffee, etc. — a distance of about two miles. 
As we descended the mountain the mosquitoes com- 
menced an assault upon us and General Taylor 
would have been compelled to surrender upon this 
occasion. I never before saw them half so numer- 
ous or so bloodthirsty. They stung my hands so 
much that they were soon badly swollen. After 
fighting them about half an hour, we were success- 
ful in getting back with a few quarts of water. Dis- 
tance, twenty miles. 

June 2^. 

This morning we drove four miles to Bear River 
and stopped for the day, all needing rest. A fam- 
ily of the Snake Indians came to our camp and 
asked for sugar and powder. They were dressed 
in dirty buckskin and looked very wretched. We 
see already upon the road numerous stragglers, 
men having lost their teams and provisions, and 
those who started unprepared. Our speed on the 
road has been much better than we expected. For 
more than a month we have seen the same com- 
panies, some of them supplied with the best teams. 
Distance, four miles. 



SOUn WATERS. 61 

June 24. 

Started early this morning, all in good spirits. 
Continued down the valley but were not within sev- 
eral miles of the river for most of the day, and did 
not come close to it at all, though we crossed a 
great many streams, which came down from the 
range of mountains on our right, and emptied into 
Bear River. Though we had' crossed many streams 
during the day, at night we camped not less than 
three miles from it. A couple of our men went to 
the river for some water, and when they returned 
they declared that it was not less than four miles 
to it. It appears about one mile and a half. Road 
today excellent. The wild sage which covered 
most of the countrv from Fort Laramie to Green 
River is not so prolific in this region, but a great 
many plants spring up among the grass, some of 
which bear beautiful blossoms. Distance, twenty- 
six miles. 

June 25. 

Went two miles to water and took breakfast; 
about eight miles farther we came to Cold Springs. 
They spring up out of the plain near the trail and 
make quite a respectable stream. The water is re- 
markably cold and good. Opposite the Cold 
Springs, and a])out a half a mile to the right, is 
another natural curiosity, called Beer Springs. 
These springs are so called from the fact that these 
springs have a sour taste, somewhat resembling 
beer. It springs out of an elevated, light-colored 



^ TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

rock, which I suppose was caused by the petrifica- 
tion ol certain properties in the water. Upon the 
center of the elevation are several sharp-pointed 
rocks, from which the water rushes. Several of 
these conical rocks, larger than the rest, are now 
exhausted. They must have been great curiosities 
when in full play. Four miles further on, and 
within two yards of Bear River, are Steamboat 
Springs. The water of these springs, which 
gushes from the rocks is warm, which is the more 
remarkable from the fact of its being so close to 
the river. Just beyond this place the Bear River 
bends suddenly round the mountains, to the south, 
and here we leave it. It is well known it rises in 
the great basin and empties into Salt Lake. A lit- 
tle to the west of the bend is the old crater, so called 
from the supposition that it was once a volcano, the 
base alone remaining. The rocks in this ruinous- 
looking place bear the marks of fire. Opposite to 
the old crater the road branches off to Fort Hall, 
the one we are traveling (Hedspeths [?] Cutoff), 
continuing west. Distance, twenty miles. 

June 26. 

This afternoon we crossed the vide that divides 
the waters of the Great Basin from those of the 
Pacific. This we know from the fact that we 
crossed a branch of the Pont Neuf River. At 
night we encamped by the Pont Neuf. It is from 
ten to fifteen yards wide, and deep. We saw some 
Snake Indians today. They have plenty of horses. 



MOSQUITOES AND BUFFALOES. 63 

which they offer to sell. The country before us 
appears very mountainous. I must cut today's note 
short, as it takes both hands to keep off the mosqui- 
toes. Confound the mosquitoes! Distance, twenty 
miles. 

June 2y. 

Today our road led over very mountainous coun- 
try. We crossed two high mountain ranges, with 
a fine stream of water between them. In advance 
of us our path was filled up with mountains, one 
upon another. Snow to be seen. There are two 
classes of mountains in this region, the largest cov- 
ered with snow and the smaller one having vegeta- 
tion and filling up the space between the others. 
Upon the peaks of vSome of the highest mountains 
is a stunted growth of cedar, which gives them 
rather a dark appearance. I have often heard 
when at home that buffalo did not abound west of 
the south pass, but I have seen numerous evidences 
in the shape of skulls by the road ; but it is said by 
the Indians that there are not at this time any buf- 
falo in this region, nor has there been for six years 
past. A sufficient cause for their entire disappear- 
ance in this region I cannot fully understand. Dis- 
tance, sixteen miles. 

Tune 28. 

Most excellent road today, and down hill all the 
way, except a circuitous narrow gorge in the moun- 
tains of about four miles in length, which we went 



64 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

through in the afternoon. In descending the west- 
ern slope of this range we found the road very 
steep, tliough we came down in safety. At the 
soda springs we saw an old man who called himself 
Captain Grant. He assured us that one half of 
our cattle would die on the cut-off, for want of 
grass, and also that the road was almost impass- 
ible and no nearer than that by Fort Hall. This 
statement in respect to grass is utterly untrue, and 
we suspect the others are of like character. Grass 
on the cut-oif is first rate — better than we have be- 
fore seen on the road. Wild flax abounds in this 
region, though not in abundance. It is now in full 
bloom and looks quite like a flower garden in some 
places. We stopped by a little stream at noon, be- 
yond which water is not so plenty for about twenty 
miles. There are willows growing along this 
stream. The road turns south after we cross it. 
We laid here until three o'clock and then went on 
about eight miles, passing over a range of low 
mountains, and encamped at night in the valley. 
A shower of rain in the afternoon. Distance, 
twenty miles. 

June 29. 

Went down the valley about four miles to where 
it turned west over the mountains, when we un- 
yoked the cattle and drove them in a southeast di- 
rection to a spring of water. About eight miles 
more brought us to a valley in which were several 
good springs. In the afternoon went eight miles 



PRAIRIE SQUIRRELS. 65 

and found another spring of good water. Here we 
took :n water for the night and encamped just be- 
yond, wher^ we found good grass. A little animal 
abounds in this region called the prairie squirrel. 
It is a little smaller than the common black squir- 
rel, and gray in color. We see hundreds of them 
every day, and they are often killed with clubs and 
whips. I first noticed them in the vicinity of Fort 
Laramie, and have seen them every day since. The 
Indians, the Snakes principally, shoot them and use 
them, as an article of food. Road good, weather 
pleasant. Distance, twenty miles. 

June 30. 

This morning we continued through the range of 
mountains which we entered yesterday. In the 
forenoon found plenty of water, passing several 
springs, and at length came to a mountain stream, 
which we followed down the valley. At noon we 
stopped opposite to a spur of rock. In the after- 
noon we struck out across the valley in a western 
direction. After crossing the stream which we fol- 
lowed in the morning, we went about twelve miles 
before we reached water. This stream was but 
four or five feet wide, but deep and dif^cult to 
cross. In this valley there is an abundant growth 
of wild sage and grease wood, but not much grass. 
Distance, twenty-seven miles. 



66 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 



July i. 



Went four miles this morning and came to what 
we supposed to be Raft River. It is about six 
yards wide and deep, like most of the other rivers 
in the mountains. We forded it and went up its 
valley about one mile and laid by till about 4 o'clock 
in the afternoon, when we proceeded three miles 
further and stopped for the night, the grass in 
which a heavy swath could be cut. Just after wc 
crossed Raft River we came to the junction of the 
cut-off with the Fort Hall road. Those with whom 
we have spoken about the road represent it as being 
further and the worst of the two. On that road 
there are one or two very bad streams to cross, and 
also a mirey district. Distance, eight miles. 

July 2. 

Went up Raft River a short distance, when we 
crossed it and struck out in a southern direction. 
We went up a gentle slope for several miles and 
then descended into a wide valley, in which we 
crossed several streams and found plenty of grass. 
By one of these brooks we stopped at noon. In the 
afternoon we proceeded, and after going three 
miles, we entered the mountains again and went 
through a rugged region through the remainder of 
the day, though the road was good and water 
plenty. Towards evening we came to the junction 
of the Fort Hall and Salt Lake roads, about nine- 
teen miles from where it crossed Raft River. We 



FOURTH OF JULY. 67 

fell in with some emigrants direct from Salt Lake 
and got all the news we could. Provisions are rep- 
resented as being very high there — flour $i.oo per 
pound and other things in proportion, except but- 
ter and milk, w^hich are comparatively cheap. Dis- 
tance, twenty-one miles. 

July 3. 

In the morning we went up Sleet (?) Creek, 
which we followed a mile or so up a ravine, and 
after descending the other side of the rhountain, we 
reached what is called Goose Creek, a distance of 
about ten miles. This part of the day's drive was 
bad. In the afternoon we proceeded up Goose 
Creek about twelve miles. This stream is about 
six yarc's wide and the valley is narrow; grass 
good. Weather hot. Distance, twenty-two miles. 

July 4. 

The Fourth of July! What a glorious day, and 
how honored at home, but to the travel-worn emi- 
grant, in the eternal wilds, this day's remem- 
brances hardly stir the sluggish blood. All are 
rushing to the gold region, and few stop to cele- 
brate the Fourth of July. We drove as usual, wild 
sage and dust being about the only thing in the eye. 
We followed up Goose Creek and a tributary for 
about ten miles, when we struck out across a high, 
dry country, destitute of vegetation, except wild 
sage, etc. After going twelve miles, we came to 



GS TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

Thousand Spring Valley, and going down it a lit- 
tle more than a mile we found water and tolerable 
grass, where we stopped for the night. Day hot! 
Distance, twenty-three miles. 

Julys. 

Continued our march down the valley for ten 
miles, when we turned to the right, and on going 
two miles, came to what is called Dry Creek. In 
the afternoon wc followed up this valley. In it 
there is the channel of a creek in which there is a 
little indifferent water in holes. A little farther on 
we noticed more water in the creek, and presently 
we saw it had increased to a stream. About ten 
miles up we stopped for the night, where we found 
a well of tolerable water. Grass first rate. Dis- 
tance, twenty-two miles. 

' July 6. 

We went up the valley this morning eight miles 
and crossed the stream which I suppose is called 
Cold Creek. P'ive miles more brought us to the 
end of the valley, where we found a good spring of 
water. In the afternoon we went over a range of 
mountains, and after going eight miles, came to an- 
other valley, in which we found a spring and good 
grass. Weather warm. Distance, twenty-one 
miles. 



HUMBOLDT MOUNTAINS. 69 

July 7. 

Continued down the valley all day, except a few 
miles over a point of land running into a bend of 
the river. We found water in sloughs along the 
valley and at night came to a stream which is the 
head w^aters of Mary's or Humboldt's River. The 
valley is here broad and the grass good, though the 
soil is considerably impregnated with alkali. The 
weather cool and cloudy, with heavy rain seen fall- 
ing upon the mountains in the afternoon. We be- 
gin to think that we have gained upon the great 
mass of emigrants, as we have not seen so many 
in the last few days ; but this is owing to some ex- 
tent by some having stopped at Salt Lake to recruit 
and others having gone by Fort Hall to Oregon. 
We at present overtake more than overtake us. 
Distance, twentv miles. 

. July 8. 

This morning we reached the main stream of the 
long looked for Humboldt. The crossing was bad, 
the water being deep and the banks steep, though 
the stream is but about eight yards wide. The val- 
ley opens broad and affords a very extensive view 
of the countrv in advance of us. On our ris^ht 
rise the Humboldt Mountains, whose summits are 
covered with snow. The last rays of the setting 
sun are now lending to their spotless mantle a 
warm, rosy glow. One by one the lofty peaks lose 
their transient splendor, and outline after outline 
loses its distinctness in the sombre hues of evening. 



T'O TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

No timber in sight, except a litth underbrush by 
the river. Today we passed a new-made grave, in 
which sleeps the last sleep of an emigrant who was 
shot a few days ago by an Indian, while on guard. 
Indians were about for the purpose of stealing 
horses and really did succeed in capturing one while 
the mounted guard was receiving the attention of 
the whole company. The fatal arrow was poisoned. 
This murder will raise great animosity against the 
Indians and the future emigrant, as he passes by 
the grave of his murdered countryman, will feel a 
spirit of revenge. The Root Diggers infest this 
region, a most savage and degraded tribe. Dis- 
tance, twenty miles. 

July 9. 

Continued down the valley this morning some 
seven miles, when we came to a branch of the river 
and forded it. It is longer than the first we came 
to, though better to ford. At noon we met five 
men who had their team of six horses stolen last 
night by the Indians. There was but a single horse 
left among the five, and being unable to proceed 
with their efifects, they were waiting for some 
fortunate opportunity. We put their provisions in 
with ours, intending to assist them through the 
journey, giving them equal advantages with our- 
selves. We take one of them in our wagon. This 
afternoon they found a written notice put up by the 
way, cautioning emigrants against the Indians, and 
stating that some twenty-five horses had been 



HORSE THIEVES. 71 

stolen by the Indians in that quarter within two or 
three days. They were taken in the night. A 
mule had been shot and a man captured and robbed. 
This will arouse new vigilance. We have not yet 
heard of any cattle being stolen. Distance, twenty- 
two miles. 

July io. 

Nothing of note today. Continued down the 
valley thirteen miles by noon, then ascended a 
mountain and took a very circuitous course for the 
remainder of the day, making nine miles by night. 
Distance, twenty-two miles. 

July ii. 

Went down the Humboldt and crossed another 
^ream, tributary to the former. After crossing it 
we commenced ascending a range of mountains and 
continued in this character of country for some fif- 
teen or eighteen miles ; but little water, and that in 
springs in the mountains. At night we reached the 
Humboldt again after having been from it some 
thirty-five miles. This portion of the road is new. 
The usual road is near the river, but could not be 
traveled now on account of high water. The face 
of the country is very barren, always excepting 
wild sage. Our road is very dusty. The dust is 
so light that the least wind raises it, though it does 
not impede the wheels of the wagons but little. 
Sometimes the dust is so heavy that we cannot see 
the wagon immediately ahead of us in the train. 



72 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 

Quite a number of packers pass us daily. Provi- 
sions begin to get scarce. Constant applications 
are made. Distance, twenty-six miles. 

July 12. 

Having made a long drive yesterday, we rested 
today till noon. As we started we turned off to 
the right and reached the river again at the end of 
eight miles, continued along it a mile or two, 
crossed another low range of hills about two miles 
across, and camped for the night by the Humboldt, 
a short distance further on. Distance, twelve 
miles. 

July 13. 

Continued down the valley, which is very wide 
at this point. Toward night we entered into an- 
other bend of the river, running across by north 
and south. The general surface of the soil here is 
nearly bare, wild sage, greasewood and a few 
stunted weeds being the only vegetation. The soil 
is light in color and weight, and walking through 
it is like walking through ashes or slacked lime. 
Most of the day we were several miles from the 
river and came to it but twice during the day, I 
never saw such dense clouds of dust as I saw here, 
and it is more disagreeable on account of being im- 
pregnated with alkali, which abounds in this val- 
ley. The sky is cloudless and the sun extremely 
warm. We have traveled so long among the 
mountains, and all bearing the same general ap- 



A DESOLATE PLAIN. 73 

pearance, that we seem to be stationary instead of 
changing our position every day. In looking 
around me I seem to be in a deep blue ocean of air, 
with the distant mountains around as the shore. 
Distance, twenty-three miles. 

July 14. 

Went on this morning over a most desolate plain, 
with scarcely a vestige of vegetation, except grease- 
wood. We traveled fifteen miles before we 
reached the river, and then found no grass on the 
east side; but as some men were ferrying grass 
across in a wagon bed, we procured it and brought 
over grass for our cattle. After going two miles 
further we came to a fork in the road, one run- 
ning down the river and the other passing over a 
low range of bluffs. We followed the latter and 
came to the river again in about two miles. Dis- 
tance, twenty miles. 

July 15. 

This morning we went on eight miles, when we 
cam.e to the river, where we stopped to water. Here 
we found quite a number of wagons which were 
slopped in consequence of a report that they were 
near the desert and at the place where it was neces- 
sary to take in grass. We made inquiries and ex- 
amined our uncertain guides, which tended to cor- 
roborate the report. The indications were all 
affirmative, but the distance was too short. Several 



74 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

hundred wagons have gone directly off the road 
eight miles to procure grass for their stock on the 
desert, and finally we concluded to go also, and be 
on the safe side at any rate. In the afternoon we 
traveled to the grass and found it tolerably good 
and was enabled in the afternoon to cut as much 
as we could conveniently carry. Day hot. Dis- 
tance, eight miles. 

July i6. 

Up and off* early. Came to the river again some 
three miles below where we left it. A little lower 
down we stopped at noon. By the way, one of our 
men went on twelve miles yesterday noon to see if 
we were as near the sink as was supposed. We 
found the appearance of the river unchanged and 
concluded that the sink was not near. However, 
we determined to take on our grass and use it when 
necessary. In the afternoon we went over a low 
range of hills some six miles in distance, then we 
came to the river, and soon stopped for the night, 
and found good grass after a good deal of trouble 
in getting our oxen over a bad slough. Distance, 
twelve miles. 

July 17. 

In the forenoon we were thrown off our main 
course some three miles by having to go round a 
slough. We met some packers from California, 
who informed us that we were 140 miles from the 
sink. We discredited their statement, but soon 



SCARCITY OF FOOD. 75 

after came to some emigrants who were old neigh- 
bors of these Californians and was told by them 
that confidence might be placed in the report. This 
disappointment came extremely hard to those who 
Avere nearly out of provisions. Some are already 
destitute of food and have to depend on the liber- 
ality of others. Some are killing their work cat- 
tle for beef. One man in our own company offered 
^lo for five pounds of flour and could not get it. 
The grass and water in this region are poor. 
Weather warm. Distance, eighteen miles. 

July i8. 

There being but little grass where we stopped 
last night, we went on this morning before break- 
fast about five miles. Being weary of the journey 
and wishing to proceed as fast as possible, I here 
sold out my share in the team, and in company with 
another of our party who sold out his team also, 
proceeded ahead of the wagons, carrying our pro- 
visions upon a pony, going in company with six 
others from the same company, who set out in con- 
sequence of being short of eatables. Most of the 
day we kept by the river, but just at night happened 
to get upon a sand plain of fifteen miles, without 
grass or water. We came upon this distance un- 
awares and sufifered much for water. About 9 
o'clock we reached the river again, greatly fa- 
tigued. Distance, thirty-five miles. 



76 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 

July 19. 

Proceeded down the river and went round a 
great bend to the north. Grass very scarce. Hot 
weather. A breeze every noon; soil very Hght. 
Distance, twenty-two miles. 

July 20. 

Light sand plain. River bottom narrow. No 
grass. Dead animals. Destruction of property. 
Distance, twenty-two miles. 

July 21. 

Fourteen miles to good spring — two to river — 
three to grass for the desert. Grass plenty. Beef 
twenty-five cents per pound. One hundred wagons 
preparing. Weather hot. Destitution of food 
among the emigrants. Distance, twenty-three 
miles. 

July 22. 

Started early for the sink. Country barren. 
Bad water. Distance, twelve miles. 

July 23 and 24. 

Crossed the desert forty miles. Eight miles to 
the sink. Went upon the desert at 4 o'clock p. m. 
Saw many dead animals. First part road level 
and good. Moonlight night. Wagons strewn 
along the road. Latter part of the road deep sand. 



DIVERSITY OF COUNTRY, 77 

E.eached Carson River at ii o'clock a. m. Saw 
timber for the first time in several hundred miles. 

July 25. 

Went up river twelve miles, then from it for 
fifteen miles over a high desert country. Valley of 
river narrow and well timbered. Distance, twenty- 
seven miles. 

July 26. 

Left the river and went twenty-six miles before 
we came near it again. Country barren and 
broken. 

July 2y. 

Went up river eight miles, then left it for 
twelve. Road mountainous, with a little cedar. 
Distance, twenty miles. 

July 28. 

By river one mile, from it five, then up the val- 
ley remainder of the day. Valley wide — numerous 
mountain streams, fine grass and fine flowers. A 
high mountain on our right. Snow on some of the 
peaks. Nights cool. Past trading post. Provi- 
sions from a dollar to two dollars per pound. Pack- 
ers and foot men rushing for the diggings. Dis- 
tance, twenty-one miles. 



78 TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 



July 29. 



Up the valley twelve miles, then through a can- 
yon six, then in camp two miles beyond; canyon 
rocky and ascending and full of timber. High 
mountains all around us. Distance, twenty miles. 

July 30. 

To dividing range of mountains, with Red Lake 
at foot, five miles. Over this range and down to 
another lake, six miles. Over Snow Mountain to 
Rock Valley, ten miles. (Through snow two 
miles.) Road over continual rocks; snow in places, 
and timber. Cool day and freezing at night. On 
the mountain, amid the melting snows, were 
flowers of the most brilliant colors, and the road 
passed for many miles among gigantic pines. Dis- 
tance, twenty-one miles. 

July 31. 

Went fifteen miles to Leak [Leap (?)] Spring 
Valley. Country mountainous and well timbered. 

August i. 

Went seventeen miles to the junction of the 
Weaver and Hangtown roads. No grass and but 
little water on the road in this distance. Road bad. 



LIKE CALIFORNIA, 79 



August 2. 



Went seventeen miles to Pleasant Valley, in the 
vicinity of Ringgold and Weaver. Here the coun- 
try begins to look like California — canvas houses, 
hot weather, dry, reddish soil. This day's travel I 
consider the conclusion of a journey, a longer or 
more tedious than which is not often performed on 
this earth. 

'The heart rebounds with long forgotten fleet- 
ness" at the thought of having performed it. The 
interminable wastes are passed over, the wilderness 
of wild sage and ashes is behind me, and climbing 
a hundred mountains will no longer tire my feet. 
This act is ended, and now for a struggle for gold 
and then 

"Oh! for a falcon's wing to bear, 
To bear me to my home." 

NOTE. 

The distances in the foregoing journal are probably inac- 
curate, as we had no means to measure them, and depended 
entirely on our own judgment. In reading it over, I have 
noticed many typographical and grammatical errors, but these 
will be excused when it is recollected that it \^as written for 
the most part in haste and at different times. 

C. W. S. 

The End. 



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